Many people have experienced this: You start using a new product full of anticipation, and suddenly your skin blossoms – but not in a positive way. Now the question arises: Is this the infamous "purging" or is it a genuine intolerance? This article is precisely about that: We explain the differences, how you should react in acute cases, and which ingredients can typically trigger purging.
What does purging mean?
Purging refers to a temporary deterioration of the skin when an active ingredient accelerates cell renewal. Blockages that would otherwise only become visible after weeks rise to the surface more quickly. The initial result is more blemishes before the skin's appearance improves over time. It's important to note: Purging is not a medical term , but rather a term that originates from the skincare community.
Typical active ingredients that can trigger purging are retinoids such as retinol or tretinoin. They strongly stimulate skin renewal and are also very effective in anti-aging. Chemical peels such as AHAs (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid) or BHAs (salicylic acid) can also cause more breakouts in the first few weeks before the skin adjusts. Other examples are azelaic acid , which has a keratolytic effect, or benzoyl peroxide , which often causes irritation but, strictly speaking, does not trigger classic purging.
Examples from K-Beauty include the COSRX Retinol 0.1 Cream , the COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid or the Some By Mi AHA-BHA-PHA 30 Days Miracle Toner .
What does intolerance mean?
In contrast, an intolerance is a negative skin reaction to an ingredient. This reaction doesn't improve on its own but rather worsens as the product continues to be used. Typical signs include burning, itching, widespread redness , or even small pustules and rashes on areas of skin that are normally unproblematic. Extreme dryness, flaking, or a strong feeling of tightness can also occur. The skin only calms down when the offending product is discontinued.
Purging or intolerance – the differences at a glance
The following overview helps to differentiate between the two reactions:
feature | Purging | intolerance |
---|---|---|
Caused | Active ingredient accelerates cell renewal | Sensitivity or allergic reaction |
Skin condition | Small pimples, mostly in problem areas | Redness, rash, burning or itching |
localization | In places where impurities would otherwise occur | Even on unusual skin areas |
Course | Starts in the first few weeks and improves over time | Persists or worsens |
What to do in case of acute reactions?
Whether it's purging or intolerance, if your skin reacts strongly, it's important to act quickly. Pause the new product for now and reduce your routine to the essentials: a mild cleanser, a simple moisturizer, and sunscreen. Avoid other active ingredients until your skin calms down. Soothing ingredients like centella asiatica , panthenol , or beta-glucan can support the skin barrier. If the condition worsens or persists, it's advisable to consult a dermatologist.
Introducing new products correctly
A common mistake is to start using several new products at once. If irritation occurs, it's almost impossible to determine which product was the cause—or whether it was the combination. It's better to introduce one new product at a time, gradually . For example, start with two to three times a week, using a small amount (the size of a pea), and observe your skin's reaction. The "sandwich method" can be particularly helpful with potentially irritating ingredients like retinoids: first moisturize, then the active ingredient, then moisturize again. This reduces the stress on your skin and allows it to adjust slowly.
Important note on EU regulation
From November 1, 2025 , new maximum levels for vitamin A derivatives in cosmetics (measured as retinol equivalent, RE ) will apply in the EU: a maximum of 0.3% RE in facial care products and hand creams, and 0.05% RE in body lotions. From this date, products exceeding these limits may no longer be placed on the market. They may also no longer be sold from May 1, 2027 .
Conclusion
Purging is a normal initial reaction to certain active ingredients and manifests as temporary blemishes. Intolerance, on the other hand, is a clear warning signal from the skin and will not improve as long as the product is continued. Therefore, the most important rule is: if you experience severe reactions, pause products, calm the skin, and always introduce new products slowly and one at a time . This is the best way to identify what truly benefits your skin—and avoid unnecessary setbacks in your skincare routine.