Understanding Retinol – and Alternatives Like Bakuchiol

Retinoids have been a central component of evidence-based skincare for decades. They improve photoaging, promote a more even skin texture, and help with clogged pores and acne. At the same time, they are not an overnight fix. Results develop over weeks to months—and only if the application and tolerability are right. This article concisely explains how retinoids work, what options are available, when bakuchiol is a sensible alternative, and how to set realistic expectations.

Retinoid Basics – in brief

“Retinoids” are active ingredients that belong to the vitamin A family and stimulate skin cells to renew themselves. What is really active in the skin is retinoic acid, which binds to certain receptors and controls processes such as cell division and collagen formation. Cosmetic products contain precursors that the skin must first convert: Retinyl esters become retinol, retinol becomes retinal (retinaldehyde), and finally retinoic acid: Retinol → Retinal (retinaldehyde) → Retinoic acid . The closer an active ingredient is to retinoic acid, the more potent (stronger) it is— but this can also irritate the skin more quickly . In addition to the active ingredient itself, the formulation is important: modern techniques such as microencapsulation, antioxidant additives, and light- and airtight packaging help to keep the active ingredient stable and ensure its effectiveness.

What is documented – and for what purpose?

The evidence on retinoids covers three core areas: firstly, the treatment of photoaging , i.e. skin aging caused by UV rays with effects such as collagen stimulation, the smoothing of fine lines and a finer skin surface. Second, acne , where retinoids open the pores through their comedolytic effect, normalize keratinization, and thus reduce the formation of new pimples. Third, the skin tone - Retinoids help to make the complexion more even and can visibly reduce UV-induced and post-inflammatory pigment spots after acne .

The key to success is not only selecting the right retinoid, but above all consistent and well-tolerated use over several weeks to months. This is the only way to achieve stable and lasting results.

The Retinoid Map: OTC vs. Rx, Briefly Classified

Prescription retinoids (Rx) such as tretinoin, adapalene, and tazarotene are considered the gold standard in the treatment of acne and photoaging. They are highly effective, but use should be supervised by a doctor, as more severe skin reactions are possible.

Retinal (retinaldehyde) is an intermediate that requires only one conversion step to active retinoic acid. It is often effective and well tolerated in practice.

Retinol is further removed from retinoic acid and requires two conversion steps. It is widely available in many products, but its effectiveness depends heavily on the formulation and base, for example, squalane or microencapsulation.

Retinyl esters are precursors of vitamin A that must first be converted into retinol in the skin. This conversion slows and mitigates the effect, making retinyl esters less irritating while still actively supporting skin renewal and collagen synthesis. Therefore, retinyl esters are a good choice for very sensitive skin or for those just starting out with retinoid use.

HPR, or "Granactive Retinoid," is a modern active ingredient that binds directly to retinoid receptors without prior conversion. This makes it more potent than retinol, but with comparatively fewer side effects. Independent data on its effectiveness compared to traditional retinoids is still limited, but practice shows that HPR is often low in irritation and well-tolerated.

Alternatives: Bakuchiol & Co.

Bakuchiol is a plant-based active ingredient with proven efficacy against signs of skin aging such as fine lines, uneven skin tone, and dark spots. Some smaller studies suggest that bakuchiol can boost collagen production and promote cell renewal—similar to retinoids, but is significantly better tolerated and does not cause increased photosensitivity. These initial research results are promising, but still limited compared to retinol.
Bakuchiol is suitable for sensitive skin, as a slower entry option, or as a complement to low-dose retinoids. Initial visible improvements can typically be expected after 8–12 weeks .

Peptides support skin firmness and help with fine lines, but cannot replace the effectiveness of retinoids. Further details are explained in a separate article on peptides .

EU regulation on vitamin A derivatives – what does this mean for you?

Starting in fall 2025, a new regulation will come into force in the EU that sets maximum levels for vitamin A derivatives. These are expressed as retinol equivalents (RE) . New products launched on or after November 1, 2025 , must comply with these limits. Old stocks may continue to be sold until May 2027 .

What this means for you: Labels and concentration information on skin care products may change. Over-the-counter products with particularly high dosages may be adjusted or withdrawn from the market.

More important than pure concentration, however, are tolerability , the stability of the active ingredients , and regular use to achieve lasting results. For example, face creams may now contain a maximum of 0.3% retinol equivalent, and body lotions only 0.05%. Manufacturers are adapting their formulas accordingly.

What is suitable for whom? Orientation according to skin type & goal

Oily skin prone to blemishes and large pores:
Starting with a low-dose retinol or retinal in the evening is recommended, as retinal combines fast results with good tolerability. For active, inflammatory acne, dermatologists may consider adapalene (a prescription retinoid). Additional application of a BHA (salicylic acid) in the morning or during the day can help unclog pores. It's important to keep the overall stimulus load low to avoid irritation.

Dry, dehydrated or mature skin :
Here, retinal or a gentle retinol with a “buffer technique” (e.g. cream–retinoid–cream / The "sandwich method" is recommended to protect the skin barrier. Accompanying skincare with barrier strengtheners such as ceramides, squalane, and glycerin supports skin health and prevents stress. The goal is visible progress without barrier damage.

Combination skin:
A zone-by-zone approach is recommended: The T-zone (forehead, nose, chin), which is often oilier and has larger pores, can be treated more frequently with retinal or retinol. The drier cheeks should be cared for more gently, with low-dose retinol if necessary, but carefully to protect the delicate barrier.

PIH (Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation), acne scars, uneven skin tone :
A retinoid in the evening plus a vitamin C derivative or niacinamide in the morning can help even out tone and reduce dark spots.

Sensitive or rosacea-prone skin:
A cautious start with retinyl esters or low-dose retinal is advisable. Bakuchiol can also be used as a gentle alternative. During active rosacea flare-ups, use should be discontinued and a medical assessment should be sought.

Barrier disruption? First, the skin barrier should be stabilized (more on this in the blog article on the skin barrier ), e.g. with barrier strengtheners and moisturizers), before retinoids are introduced slowly and gradually.

Application: correct & skin-friendly

For retinoids to work, method and patience are required. The following steps have proven effective:

1. Start slowly. Apply a pea-sized amount to your entire face 2–3 times a week in the evening. The skin needs time for what's known as "retinization." A trial period of 4–6 weeks without increasing the dosage is normal—patience pays off.

2. In the evening, on dry skin. After cleansing, apply to completely dry skin, followed by moisturizer/cream. This prevents stinging and irritation and increases skin tolerance.

3. Buffering in cases of sensitivity. The "sandwich" method (cream-retinoid-cream) reduces penetration somewhat and improves tolerance – often the key for sensitive skin.

4. Combine cleverly. Niacinamide or vitamin C derivatives work well in the morning. High-dose AHA/BHA and benzoyl peroxide should initially be used separately from retinoids . The goal is to achieve a low irritation level while maintaining a consistent effect.

5. Apply SPF every morning. Retinoids make skin more sensitive to light . Without broad-spectrum sunscreen, you risk post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation ( PIH) and a regression in skin improvement – ​​SPF is non-negotiable.

6. Manage irritation symptoms. Persistent burning, severe erythema ( redness) , or scaling are a signal to stop: reduce the frequency or pause the treatment and soothe with ceramides, panthenol, and beta-glucan.

Purging or intolerance – short & important

Mild dryness or fine peeling may occur when you first start using retinoids . This is not uncommon and usually resolves on its own when you adjust the frequency of use . However, important warning signs include burning, severe itching, diffuse redness, or a rash – discontinue use immediately and calm your skin. You can find a detailed breakdown in the article "Purging vs. Intolerance."

Common myths – briefly clarified

“The higher the percentage, the better.” Not necessarily. The effectiveness depends not only on the concentration, but also on the tolerability, the formulation and the regular use. Higher concentrations can irritate the skin more and make application more difficult.

“Vitamin C and retinol never mix.” Not entirely true. For tolerability reasons, vitamin C (usually in the morning) and retinoids (usually in the evening) are often applied at different times. Chemically, their joint use is not fundamentally prohibited; the specific product formulation and individual skin tolerance are decisive.

“Retinoids thin the skin.” On the contrary: Retinoids promote epidermal renewal and collagen formation in the dermis, making the skin overall denser, firmer, and smoother. The thinning of the top layer of skin (the stratum corneum) contributes to improved skin texture and fineness.

Risks & Contraindications

Prescription retinoids such as isotretinoin, tretinoin or alitretinoin are known for their strong teratogenic effect (harm to the fetus) and must not be used during pregnancy or breastfeeding . Over-the-counter retinol products contain lower concentrations, but it is still recommended to avoid retinoids during breastfeeding and consult a doctor before use.

In cases of skin conditions such as severe rosacea or eczema, treatment with retinoids should only be carried out after medical consultation and under supervision, as the skin in these cases is particularly sensitive.

If the skin barrier is compromised , it is important to first stabilize it with suitable care products before introducing retinoids.

For moderate to severe acne, treatment with retinoids should be carried out under dermatological supervision, as prescription retinoids are usually used in this case.

Conclusion

Retinoids work effectively – provided they are selected appropriately, introduced carefully and consistently combined with sun protection. For those with very sensitive skin or who want to start slowly, Bakuchiol is a tolerable alternative that can achieve visible improvements over weeks. If you're looking for a routine tailored to your skin type, we've got a suitable selection – including instructions on how to get started safely.